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To pick porcini in the Périgord, head for a public forest and stick to 5 litres per person per day, which is presumed allowed; everywhere else, the landowner’s permission is compulsory. Around 99% of Dordogne’s woodland is private. As of 27 September 2026, drought is delaying the flush, and the porcini markets in Villefranche, Monpazier, Mussidan and Saint-Saud only open after the rain. Build your trip around the Villefranche-du-Périgord festival on 17 and 18 October, and keep a foodie plan B up your sleeve.

Porcini (cèpes) made Dordogne’s reputation, but 2026 is not an easy year. The summer was very dry, the mushrooms are slow to appear and foraging on your own is tightly regulated. The good news: you can still enjoy the porcini season without filling a basket, thanks to official markets, village festivals, walks with mycologists and seasonal restaurant menus. Here is a 2 to 3 day itinerary that works whether the rain comes early or late.

1. The 2026 season: rain decides, not the calendar

Porcini mushroom growing in the moss of a forest floor
Photo by Alex Skobe on Unsplash

Where does the Dordogne flush stand?

€180-220 per person for 3 days (Pixidia estimate, excluding transport) 2 to 3 days Périgueux in October: around 10 to 19 °C Usual peak from September to October, delayed in 2026

On paper, the porcini season runs from June to November, peaking from September to October on the Périgord plains, according to Sarlat Tourisme. In 2026 that calendar does not hold: as of 27 September, ICI Périgord reports that drought is delaying the arrival of porcini. The organiser of the Saint-Saud-Lacoussière festival on 4 October even says he is almost certain there will be no fresh porcini that day. Dishes made with porcini remain on the menu, though.

Nothing is lost yet. The same article points out that the Périgord has already had flushes that only came in November, and rain was forecast for early October. A porcino usually appears one to two weeks after a proper wet spell followed by milder days. If the rain did return around 1 October, the first porcini could therefore show up around mid-October, close to the Villefranche festival. That is a hypothesis, not a promise.

What matters for your trip

  • Book your nights with free cancellation, as the flush is uncertain.
  • Ring the town halls of Villefranche (+33 5 53 29 91 44), Saint-Saud (+33 5 53 56 97 03) and Mussidan (+33 5 53 81 04 07) before you set off.
  • Have a plan B that does not depend on porcini: markets, chestnuts, the truffle museum, bastide towns.
Pixidia tip: until the porcini markets open, taste the region another way. Sarlat’s market on Wednesdays and Saturdays is best visited with a guide who takes you to the producers. For your chosen date, the open October slots all fall on a Wednesday or a Saturday.
Sarlat Gourmet Tour and Market Visit From €85 per adult (based on 2 people), 8 open dates in October · ★ 4.8 (57 reviews)

2. Foraging legally: what French law says

Périgord forest seen from a treehouse cabin
Photo by Steffen Lemmerzahl on Unsplash

Public forest, private forest: the national framework

Bear in mind that French rules are stricter than the informal foraging habits many Britons are used to. A wild mushroom belongs to the owner of the land. According to the Centre national de la propriété forestière (the French national forest ownership centre), picking in a private wood without the owner’s consent is theft, and the owner does not need to put up a sign to assert that right. And according to ICI, around 99% of Dordogne’s forests are private. Only about thirty public forests remain.

The general framework comes from Article R163-5 of the French Forestry Code. In a forest under the forestry regime (managed by the ONF or a commune), picking is presumed allowed up to 5 litres, roughly one well-filled basket, unless a local rule says otherwise. Without permission and under 10 litres, it is a 4th-class offence: a €135 fixed fine, up to €750 in court. Above 10 litres, or for truffles in any quantity, it becomes theft, punishable by 3 years in prison and a €45,000 fine.

Good habits

  • Pick for your own consumption only: selling is forbidden in public forest.
  • Use an open basket rather than a plastic bag, and cut the porcino’s stem rather than pulling it up.
  • Ask at the town hall: local orders can restrict days, quantities or areas.
  • No truffles, and never dig on private land.
Hunting: the season has been open in Dordogne since 13 September 2026 and runs until 28 February 2027, according to the prefecture. Do not enter a drive-hunt zone, and check the hunt map before walking into a public forest. If you love autumn woods, our guide to the deer rut in France, Spain and Germany also covers how to behave in the forest.

We found no prefectural order in Dordogne setting a département-wide picking quota: the national framework applies, plus any local rules set by communes. Public forests regularly cited by tourist offices include the communal forest of Sarlat-Campagnac (31 hectares), the Bessède forest near Belvès, the Barade forest and the Maine forest near Bergerac. The first is small and very busy: it is no secret spot, and the resource is quickly picked over.

3. Porcini markets and October festivals

Square of a Dordogne bastide lined with stone houses
Photo by Carnet de Voyage d’Alex on Unsplash

Four official markets, opening only when the mushrooms come

Four markets are devoted to the porcino: Villefranche-du-Périgord, Monpazier, Mussidan and Saint-Saud-Lacoussière. Their opening is decided at the last minute depending on the rain, usually in the early afternoon (3 pm or 4 pm depending on the square). Sellers are Dordogne woodland owners belonging to the Cèpes du Périgord association, with proof of ownership, mushrooms picked less than 24 hours earlier and a traceability certificate handed to the buyer, according to the Mussidan town hall. You cannot sell your own haul there.

For reference, in 2025 porcini traded between €12 and €22 a kilo, and twelve tonnes were sold in one week across three markets, according to ICI. No 2026 figure exists yet. Arrive 30 to 45 minutes before opening, look around first, and ask for the traceability certificate.

October 2026 highlights

  • Sunday 4 October, Saint-Saud-Lacoussière: « Cèpes par-là » festival, 10 am to 5 pm, free entry, meal at €20. Fresh porcini unlikely, according to the organiser.
  • Sunday 11 October, Le Bugue: local produce festival, meal at €23 with booking.
  • Saturday 17 and Sunday 18 October, Villefranche-du-Périgord: 34th Chestnut and Porcini Festival, free apart from concerts and meals, with a giant omelette and the Maison de la Châtaigne open to visit, according to fete-de-village.fr.
  • 19 to 24 October: first Semaine des Chefs (Chefs’ Week), 40 Périgord chefs, menus at €38 or €48 including wine and coffee, according to A vos assiettes.
  • Saturday 24 and Sunday 25 October: Bastides en Fête, including Monpazier, free entry.
Pixidia tip: the Villefranche festival falls on the first weekend of France’s All Saints school holidays (17 October to 2 November), so book early. If you are still weighing up where to go for that break, our All Saints 2026 selection has other ideas.

4. A 3-day itinerary around the Villefranche festival

Medieval lane in Sarlat-la-Canéda in golden stone
Photo by Hans Westbeek on Unsplash

Thursday 15 to Saturday 17 October 2026

This itinerary follows market days and keeps activities that work even without porcini. Do not plan more than two big stops a day, and leave 45 minutes of margin for the afternoon markets. A car is close to essential: the villages are small and opening hours are unusual.

Day 1, Thursday 15 October: Green Périgord

  • Morning: Excideuil market (Thursday, 8:30 am to 12:30 pm) and the castle courtyard, free.
  • Afternoon: Écomusée de la Truffe in Sorges, about 40 minutes for the visit, €6 full price, truffle trail open access. Closed on Tuesdays, open 10 am to 12:30 pm then 2 pm to 5 pm on weekdays.
  • Night in Périgueux or Excideuil.

Day 2, Friday 16 October: Périgueux then Sarlat

  • Morning: historic centre and Halle du Coderc in Périgueux, then the road to Sarlat (about 1 hour).
  • Late afternoon: Sainte-Marie covered market in Sarlat, or the communal forest of Sarlat-Campagnac if the flush has happened, within the 5-litre limit.
  • Night in Sarlat.

Day 3, Saturday 17 October: Chestnut and Porcini Festival

  • Villefranche-du-Périgord is about 1 hour from Sarlat and 45 minutes from Bergerac. Saturday morning market, Maison de la Châtaigne, giant porcini omelette at lunchtime.
  • Afternoon: guided visit, sacred music concert, and the porcini market if the flush has allowed it.
  • Sunday option: procession of the confréries (traditional brotherhoods) and a cherry-stone spitting contest, then Monpazier.
Pixidia tip: if you come before 11 October, swap day 3 for Sarlat on the Saturday, then Saint-Saud-Lacoussière on 4 October or Le Bugue on 11 October. Coming from the UK, the easiest routes are a flight to Bergerac (Ryanair has served it from London Stansted in summer 2026, but winter schedules are thinner, so check before booking) or Eurostar to Paris and then about 3 h 30 by train to Périgueux, followed by a regional TER towards Sarlat: confirm on SNCF Connect, as connections vary. To stay free on the small roads, a car changes everything.

Indicative budget: for two people, allow an average of €89 a night in a guesthouse (chambre d’hôtes) in shoulder season, breakfast included, though prices move with the All Saints holidays. On the ground, a festival meal costs €20 to €23, a Chefs’ Week menu €38 or €48, and the tasting at the écomusée €6. Our overall estimate: €180 to €220 per person for 3 days, excluding transport. It is an editorial estimate, not an official price.

5. Off the beaten track: mycology outings and good addresses

If you would rather learn than search, the Société mycologique et botanique du Périgord runs free outings open to all. Early October programme: the 3rd in Saint-Chamassy, the 4th in Saint-Amand-de-Coly, the 7th in Paussac-Saint-Vivien, the 10th in Alvignac, in the Lot. Start times are announced around 9:30 am, contact: [email protected]. An outing with a mycologist teaches you to recognise species, not to find a spot: owners keep their woods to themselves. We have not identified a verifiable professional foraging guide in Dordogne, so the association is the safest route.

Where to eat porcini, if the season follows

These addresses are regularly cited by guides and online reviews. None has been verified for 2026: call ahead to confirm they are open and have porcini on the menu.

  • Excideuil: the Auberge du Fin Chapon and L’Escapade des Sens, where porcini are mentioned as seasonal.
  • Sarlat: La Taverne du Croquant, for traditional Périgord cooking.
  • Near Sarlat: the Auberge du Brusquand, a farm inn built around duck and local produce.

If the porcini are late: plan B

October is also the season for chestnuts and walnuts. Note that walnut growers report smaller sizes this year because of the heatwaves. On the sightseeing side, Thiviers market on Saturday mornings has around a hundred stallholders. The foie gras and truffle market is not held there in October: it starts with winter. A good excuse to come back in December. To combine vineyards and forests, the Bergerac area also makes a good side trip, as our guide to the 2026 grape harvest around Bordeaux does.

6. Identifying your mushrooms: take no risks

Remember: if in doubt, eat nothing. Call 15 (France’s emergency medical service; 112 also works from a UK mobile) or a poison centre if symptoms appear, even several hours after the meal, and keep a raw specimen for identification.

The classic reflex in France is to show your haul to a pharmacist. Many will oblige, but it is neither an obligation nor a guarantee: not all want to take on the responsibility, so ring first. Do not use an identification app: Anses, the French food safety agency, advises against them because of a high risk of misidentification. Pick the stem and cap whole, one species per container, and never eat a mushroom raw.

For porcini, know two look-alikes. The bitter bolete is not toxic but ruins the dish. The devil’s bolete is toxic: orange-yellow stem dotted with red, red pores, flesh that turns blue when cut, according to Sarlat Tourisme. And never forget that a brown cap does not make a porcino.

Practical info

For more autumn weekend ideas, take a look at our selection where to go in autumn 2026.

Frequently asked questions

Can you pick porcini anywhere in Dordogne?

No. Around 99% of Dordogne’s forests are private: you need the owner’s permission, even for a single basket, otherwise it counts as theft. In public forests, picking is presumed allowed up to 5 litres per person per day, unless a local rule says otherwise. CNPF.

What fine do you risk for illegal foraging?

Without permission and under 10 litres, it is a 4th-class offence: a €135 fixed fine, €750 at most. Above 10 litres, or for truffles, it is theft, with up to €45,000 and 3 years in prison. Légifrance.

Are porcini growing in the Périgord in 2026?

As of 27 September 2026, drought is delaying the flush. Rain was forecast for early October, and late flushes in November have happened before. Check with the town halls before you travel. ICI Périgord.

When does the Villefranche-du-Périgord porcini market open?

It has no fixed date: the town hall announces it when the flush allows, usually in the early afternoon. In 2025 it opened on 11 September. For 2026, call the town hall on +33 5 53 29 91 44.

Can a pharmacist identify my mushrooms?

Many French pharmacies do, but it is neither an obligation nor a guarantee: call first. The Société mycologique et botanique du Périgord also runs free outings with identification.

Can you visit the Périgord in October without finding porcini?

Yes: the markets of Sarlat, Périgueux, Excideuil and Thiviers, the Écomusée de la Truffe in Sorges, the Maison de la Châtaigne in Villefranche, bastide towns like Monpazier, and free mycology outings. That is the plan B of the itinerary above.

Do you need a car for this itinerary?

It is strongly recommended: the villages are small, porcini markets keep afternoon hours and train and coach services are limited. Rental agencies are found near Périgueux station. Remember to drive on the right.

Sources

Information checked on 30 September 2026. Dates, market openings and picking conditions may change: confirm with town halls and organisers before you travel.

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